Bode Gorge with Brocken © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org
Harzer-Hexen-Stieg
101 km
2544 m
2582 m
1140 m
2 - Moderate
2 of 5
22 h
Harzer-Hexen-Stieg GPX
- Harzer-Hexen-Stieg.gpx 101km
- Brockenumgehung.gpx 34km
- Southern-Option.gpx 23km
- Titan-RT.gpx 6km
Harzer-Hexen-Stieg Map & Elevation
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Introduction
Established in 2003, the Harzer-Hexen-Stieg or “Harz Witches’ Trail,” traverses the heart of the Germany, linking Osterode in the west to Thale in the east. With a main-route length of 101 kilometers, this long-distance trail weaves through the Harz National Park and the Upper Harz water management system, crossing the states of Lower Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt. As it winds through dense forests, alongside flowing ditches, and past the remnants of centuries-old mining operations, the route is marked by the green-and-white logo of a witch flying on a broom. Its blend of solitude, natural wonders, and historical insights, encapsulate a journey not just through space, but also through time.
The Harzer-Hexen-Stieg passes through the Harz Mountains, showcasing natural splendours alongside cultural and historical marvels. Among its natural highlights, the Brocken stands as the highest peak at 1,141 meters, enveloped in myths of the devil, witches and Walpurgis Night stemming from Goethe’s Faust, and offering panoramic views – when it isn’t shrouded in mist. The Torfhaus Moor is a serene expanse, while the Bode Gorge carves a dramatic path through the landscape. Along with the Roßtrappe on the opposite side, the Hexentanzplatz, with its mystical allure, overlooks the gorge’s magnificent scenery.
Culturally, the trail is dotted with engineering masterpieces like the Upper Harz Water Regale, a UNESCO World Heritage site illustrating ancient water management systems. The Brocken Railway, operational since the late 19th century, chugs its way to the summit, offering a unique vantage point. Meanwhile, the Rappbode Dam, the tallest dam in Germany, showcases modern engineering’s prowess. Each of these sites contributes to the trail’s rich mosaic of experiences, blending the primal beauty of nature with the ingenuity of human history.
The Harzer-Hexen-Stieg trail offers several route options to accommodate different hiker preferences. The initial decision point at Torfhaus allows hikers to choose the main trail over Brocken’s summit via the Goetheweg, or the southern Brockenumgehung route passing through St. Andreasberg and Braunlage, rejoining the main path near Königshütte. In Königshütte, options include the northern main route along the Bode river through Rübeland and passing below the Rappbodetalsperre dam, or the southern Köhlerpfad through Hasselfelde, both meeting at Altenbrak. Additionally, a detour between Neuwerk and Wendefurth on the northern route offers the chance to cross the Rappbodetalsperre dam or pay to traverse ‘Titan RT’, one of the longest pedestrian suspension bridges in the world, before reconnecting with the main trail at Wendefurth.
Highlights of the Harzer-Hexen-Stieg
Brocken
A Cold-War listening post often shrouded in mist, clouds and the mystery of dancing witches and demons during April 30th's Walpurgis Night, follow in the footsteps of Goethe and Faust to the 1141m summit.
Bode Gorge
Its entrance flanked by the Hexentanzplatz and Roßtrappe, and one of the largest nature reserves in Saxony-Anhalt, the Bode Gorge inspires with 240m tall walls and gushing water over the 10km from Treseburg to Thale.
Upper Harz Water Regale
A UNESCO World Heritage Site for being one of the largest and most important historic mining water management systems in the world, hike alongside a system of dams, reservoirs, ditches built from the 16th century.
Rappbode Dam & Titan-RT
A worthwhile optional detour, the 106m tall Rappbode Dam is Germany's highest and part of a network of dams providing flood protection, and has the 483m long Titan-RT pedestrian suspension bridge running alongside.
Interactive Installations
Dotted along each segment of the trail are a number of interactive islands that inform the passerby of important historical, cultural and natural aspects of the Harzer-Hexen-Stieg, Harz National Park and Harz Mountains.
Quedlinburg
Not on the trail itself but very nearby Thale, Quedlinburg is a beautifully preserved town with a wide selection of half-timbered buildings from at least five different centuries and shouldn't be missed if a return visit isn't planned.
Trail Features
Details of the trail marking and route logo, difficulty, recommended equipment, and trail certification.
The trail and variations are marked in both directions with a white-and-green logo. The western half might be better marked than eastern and mistakes can happen. I recommend a GPS device, map and magnetic compass and occasionally checking progress.
Although only 101km long, the Brocken climb is long and steep but with good paths. The Bode Gorge can be steep, uneven and loose. Good balance, ankle boots and walking poles are recommended. Sun can be oppressive, but water is plentiful.
Last certified as a “Longer Quality Hiking Trail of Germany” on September 1, 2023, a the route meets nationwide, transparent standards for attractive hiking paths, nature conservation, trail maintenance, and marking quality.
DeWandelaar’s Experience
I hiked the Harzer-Hexen-Stieg in late September 2023. Unable to find suitable accommodation in Osterode, I opted to stay at the DJH Hostel in the imperial palace city of Goslar. The staff kindly allowed me to have breakfast earlier than usual, enabling me to depart from Goslar station around 08:00 and arrive in Osterode am Harz at 09:00.
Due to this delay, I refrained from stopping to explore and instead passed by the Museum im Ritterhaus en route to the trail’s starting point. The trail ascended gradually, and I soon reached the monument for the Kiepenfrauen, women who carried baskets (Kiepen) uphill to the workers. This marked the first of several interactive installations on the trail.
Soon, I encountered the prevalence of dead trees in the region, a consequence attributed to bark beetles. While I had observed some of this on the Rothaarsteig, the situation here was far more severe, particularly around the Brocken. I have seen photos of what it was once like versus today, so it is no wonder how shocking it is to people familiar with the area.
After passing the Bärenbrucher and Ziegenberger ponds, I entered the Upper Harz Water Regale UNESCO World Heritage Site, which exceeded my expectations. The ponds, ditches, and flowing streams provided a refreshing backdrop to my hike. Filtering water from a couple of locations due to the heat, I caught my first glimpse of the Brocken along this stretch. I traversed the impressive Sperberhaier Dam aqueduct, standing approximately 16 meters high and spanning 940 meters, constructed through manual labor in the 1730s. Continuing to the monument to the Wasserknechte (water carrying men), the ditches accompanied me almost all the way to Torfhaus, where I spent the night in a tent.
The next morning, I set off before 06:30, determined to reach the summit of the Brocken in favorable weather and before the day’s heat intensified. Crossing the Torfhaus Moor, I encountered another magical view of the Brocken at dawn, and after pausing at the Eckersprung Schutzhütte on the former border of West and East Germany to reflect on the area’s more recent history, I soon joined the Goetheweg. Negotiating the communist-era military road and the steep sections alongside the Brockenbahn railway line, I finally reached the summit around 08:30, greeted by optimal lighting and clear weather. Circumnavigating the summit on the Brockenrundweg, I relished the panoramic views before descending.
Taking a break at the Urwaldsteig, I encountered extensive bark beetle damage, and the lack of shade intensified the heat. Arriving at Drei Annen Hohne around 13:00, I briefly waited for the Steam Train, albeit slightly disappointed by the more modern locomotive that eventually arrived. Continuing past the monument to Oberst Gustav Petri, I soon reached Königshütte, passing the waterfall and ascending to the Königsburg ruins. Opting for the Harzer-Hexen-Stieg’s southern route, which proved barren, I eventually crossed the Rappbodevorsperre dam and proceeded to the diminutive but charmingly located Burgruine Trageburg castle ruins, where I decided to spend the night in the Schutzhütte.
On the third day, commencing at 06:30, I witnessed a memorable misty sunrise at Hassel Vorsperre lake. Stadt Hasselfelde intrigued me with its somewhat dilapidated appearance, reminiscent of the former DDR towns. Adjacent to it, a memorial commemorated the lives lost by 90 German and American soldiers in the waning days of WWII. Passing the Upper Harz Pasture Farming monument, I bypassed the Harzköhlerei, reserving it for a future visit with family, and veered off-course near Wendefurth to head north towards the Titan RT suspension bridge.
Crossing it, I marveled at the experience, and climbed the tower at the other side, before continuing northward, passing the Gesundheitsbrunnen spring before reaching Neuwerk. Navigating westwards to the heights above Rübeland, I later retraced my steps to Neuwerk, relishing the more wooded and shady surroundings. Neuwerk’s quaint charm, embellished by the locals’ witch-themed decorations, left a lasting impression.
Navigational errors along the northern side of the Bode dam system led me astray temporarily, a plight shared by others I stumbled into. Emerging from the forest at Talsperre Wendefurth, I traversed the dam, progressing along the road to Altenbrak before rejoining the southern route, walking in the opposite direction ultimately reaching the Schöneburg hut by 17:00, where I spent the night.
The ensuing morning graced me with a splendid sunrise and vista, prompting a delayed departure at 07:20. Despite encountering fallen trees and rock slides along the way, the stretch evoked a sense of wilderness reminiscent of bygone days in the New Zealand wild. Treseburg’s picturesque allure captivated me, culminating in a visit to the Treseburg Castle ruins before delving into the Gorge.
The Bode Gorge proved enchanting, its rugged remoteness enhanced by the absence of crowds at 10:00. Negotiating steep and challenging sections, I crossed the Teufels Brücke bridge and passed the Jungfernbrucke, arriving at the DJH Thale by midday. Dropping off my backpack, I took the opportunity to explore Quedlinburg, a quaint town brimming with picturesque charm. Returning to Thale, I embarked on a cable car journey to the Roßtrappe and Hexentanzplatz, concluding my day’s adventures before 17:00.
Though I cannot attest to the Brockenumgehang’s conditions, considering the deforestation, I would recommend ascending the Brocken, then following the northern route to Neuwerk, crossing the Titan RT, using a map and a little common sense to connecting with the southern route without passing Wendefurth, traversing the Schöneburg hut to Altenbrak and onward through the Bode Gorge. For those pressed for time, commencing from Rübeland train station offers a viable option, potentially completing the Harzer-Hexen-Stieg to Thale in a single, albeit lengthy, day, or for a weekend hike.
References
External websites and resources used to create this page.
Data
Data may vary from other sources. Initial GPX track data sourced from en.harzinfo.de 1. This is modified to include start and end public transport stations, personal experience and compatibility with OpenStreetMap tiles. Minimal decimal degree track point coordinates are used to reduce file size. Website maps and GPX file coordinates may have different decimal accuracy to reduce file sizes and load times. GPX files are to 5 decimal points or better than 1.11m accuracy. Elevation is modified with CC BY 4.0 terrain data provided by Sonny at sonny.4lima.de. Elevation gain and loss is calculated by creating a sum of the increase or decrease between each GPX track point. Trail distance takes into account slope between track points. Time in hours is calculated using an average walking speed of 5km/h and takes into account speed changes due to slope.
Open Data
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