Burg Are and Altenahr © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

AhrSteig

108 km

3639 m

4070 m

611 m

3 - Strenuous

3 of 5

26 h

AhrSteig Map & Elevation

The official trail from Blankenheim (Wald) to Sinzig train stations misses much of the vineyards on the northern slopes of the Ahr Valley. The 37km Rotweinwanderweg from Altenahr to Bad Bodendorf is a popular trail on its own, and I recommend a detour to the section between Altenahr and Mayschoß. To get to the Rotweinwanderweg from the AhrSteig, take the road from Kreuzberg or follow the Teufelsloch GPX to Altenahr. To return to the AhrSteig from Mayschoß, use the Saffenburg GPX.

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AhrSteig GPX

Highlights of the AhrSteig

Sun setting over the Ahr River near Insul
Ahr River Near Insul © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Ahr

Aside from the Ahrquelle and initial kilometers, close contact with the Ahr is limited. There's a nice riverside spot to soak your feet just before Insul, close to the Bergbau Informationsstatte 'Goldloch' shelter.

Saffenburg Castle ruins above the Ahr river from the Rotweinwanderweg
Saffenburg from Rotweinwanderweg © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Castle Ruins

Of all castles, Saffenburg with the shelter and wine vending machine might be the most appealing. Burg Blankenheim, Aremburg and Burg Kreuzberg are on the trail, and a visit to Burg Are is worthwhile.

Villa Rustica Roman ruins near Blankenheim
Villa Rustica Blankenheim © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Roman Ruins

The first century Villa Rustica and grounds in Blankenheim is a perfect introduction to Roman history in the Ahr region. Off-trail, the Museum Römervilla in Ahrweiler is possibly the most impressive and well-preserved.

Hand holding a bunch of Pinot Noir grapes in the Ahr wine region
Ahr Wine Grapes © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Ahr Wine Region

This red wine region extends from Altenahr to Heimersheim, however the route takes the opposite side of the river valley to most vineyards. Close to the AhrSteig, Rech is a good opportunity  to sample Ahr wines.

Vineyards around Mayschoß in the Mittelahr from the Rotweinwanderweg
Mayschoß from Rotweinwanderweg © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Mittelahr

Consider walking to the start of the Rotweinwanderweg in Altenahr from Kreuzberg, and then past Burg Are and Mayschoß to Rech where you rejoin the AhrSteig, or do a loop from Rech along the river road to Altenahr.

View from Krausberg lookout tower as sun rises over the Ahr and Rhine valleys
Krausberg Lookout Tower © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Lookout Towers

Unfortunately the forested Aremburg and inaccessible tower gives no view, however places like the Saffenburg, Krausberg, Neuenahrer Berg Turm and Feltenturm are spectacular. Off-trail, Burg Are is also worthwhile.

DeWandelaar sitting on the oversized bench Sitzbank XXL Heimersheim
Sitzbank XXL Heimersheim © DeWandelaar.Org
DeWandelaar sitting on the oversized bench Sitzbank XXL Heimersheim
Sitzbank XXL Heimersheim © DeWandelaar.Org

Introduction

Launched in 2012, the AhrSteig carves a picturesque journey through the heart of the Ahr Valley and red wine region in southwest Germany, linking historic Blankenheim in the west to Barbarossa-town Sinzig in the east. Covering 100 kilometers, this trail delights hikers as it passes through the Eifel region and crosses through the states of North Rhine-Westphalia and Rhineland-Palatinate. Ideal for solo long-distance hikers seeking a blend of solitude, engagement with nature, and philosophical ideas to ponder on, the AhrSteig is clearly marked with a distinctive red-and-blue logo combining symbols for mountains and rivers, and traverses serene forested areas, rugged rock formations, and occasionally alongside the picturesque Ahr River, highlighting the area’s natural beauty, cultural heritage and viticulture​.

The AhrSteig trail has varied natural landscapes, offering a unique blend of geological features and scenic beauty. The Ahr Eifel, known locally as Ahreifel, features a picturesque range of rolling hills and extensive woodlands, forming a serene backdrop for the trail. This area, characterised by its lush vegetation, provides a habitat for diverse wildlife and a peaceful retreat for nature enthusiasts. The Ahr Mountains, or Ahrgebirge, constitute a significant natural attraction along the trail. Though not towering in height, these mountains present a rugged landscape that provide hikers some challenge. Their highest peaks offer panoramic views across the Ahr Valley, making them a favourite for the photographers amongst us.

At the trail’s beginning, the Ahr Spring, or Ahrquelle, marks the source of the Ahr River. This modest spring, nestled in a cellar in the village of Blankenheim, gives rise to the river that becomes a central feature of the trail. The Ahr River itself meanders through the valley, sculpting the landscape and creating a diverse ecosystem along its banks. The Ahr Valley, or Ahrtal, is renowned for its vineyard-clad hillsides and natural beauty. This valley, shaped by the Ahr River, showcases a rich blend of flora and fauna, offering hikers a tranquil yet engaging natural environment to explore.

Culturally and historically, the AhrSteig is equally enriched with landmarks that tell tales of the past. Villa Rustica in Blankenheim is a well-preserved Roman estate dating back to the 1st to 3rd centuries, offering insight into ancient rural life. Saffenburg Castle Ruins and Burg Are Castle Ruins are significant historical sites along the trail. The Saffenburg ruins, dating back to the early 11th century, and Burg Are, established in the early 12th century, provide glimpses into medieval life and architecture, echo tales of lords and battles, and stand as a poignant reminder of the area’s feudal past.

The Calvarienberg Monastery (Kloster Kalvarienberg) in Ahrweiler, established in the early 17th century, serves as a notable example of Baroque architecture and religious history. This former monastery, now a school and convent, represents the enduring influence of religious institutions in the region. St Peter Church in Sinzig (Die Pfarrkirche St. Peter), built in the 12th century, exemplifies Romanesque architecture. The church is significant for its historical and architectural value, offering visitors a window into the influence of religion on the lives of past communities.

Trail Features

Details of the trail marking and route logo, difficulty, recommended equipment, and trail certification.

The official AhrSteig logo in red and blue

The trail and flood-related detours are well marked in both directions. On the western half of the trail the logo is all-blue, the eastern half all-red. I always recommend a GPS device and occasionally checking progress.

Looking up a steep section of the AhrSteig long distance hiking trail
AhrSteig Difficulty © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Although only 108km long, the elevation profile can be challenging. Good balance, sturdy, ankle supporting boots and walking poles are recommended. Water management in hotter months should be considered.

Wanderbares Deutschland Quality Trail Logo

The AhrSteig was certified as a Quality Trail, however lost that after the floods of 2001. Although passable it was not yet accredited in late 2023, a new inspection of the trail will only take place after reconstruction is complete.

The Ahrquelle spring of the Ahr river in Blankenheim village
Ahrquelle Blankenheim © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org
The Ahrquelle spring of the Ahr river in Blankenheim village
Ahrquelle Blankenheim © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Trail Start: Blankenheim

Blankenheim, nestled within a picturesque valley on the western edge of the Ahr Mountains, is a village steeped in history and surrounded by the natural beauty of the Eifel region. Among its most cherished natural features is the Ahr Spring (Ahrquelle), the source of the Ahr River. This spring, hidden within a cellar dating to 1726 in the village’s heart, not only provides a unique attraction but also marks the beginning of the Ahrsteig hiking trail, drawing nature enthusiasts from near and far.

The history of Blankenheim is both rich and varied, stretching back over centuries. The Romans clearly settled the area in the first century AD, while the first mention of the name “blancium” in documents dates to 721AD. The Eifel Museum (Eifelmuseum) is a good place to find out more, offering visitors a comprehensive look into the region’s geology, natural history, and cultural evolution. Through its exhibits, the museum captures the essence of the Eifel area’s unique landscape and heritage, making it a must-visit for those keen to delve into the area’s past.

Architectural highlights abound in Blankenheim, showcasing its medieval heritage. Among its jewels, the Shepherds Tower (Hirtenturm) and Georges Tower (Georgstor) stand as testaments to the village’s medieval fortifications. Dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, these towers were pivotal in Blankenheim’s defense, with Georges Tower assuming a darker role in the annals of history as a site for the torture and trials of accused witches. The St. Mary’s Assumption Church (St. Mariä Himmelfahrt), dating back to 1495, is another architectural gem, featuring impressive gothic elements. The Villa Rustica Roman ruins, dating from the first to the fourth century AD, offer a window into the Roman era’s influence on the region. Burg Blankenheim (Blankenheim Castle), with its origins in the 12th century, dominates the village skyline, serving as a historic fortress and noble residence.

Regarding practicalities, Blankenheim is accessible by public transport, although options may be limited. The nearest major railway connection is at Kall, with bus services providing links to Blankenheim-Wald. Further buses or a walk of a few kilometers brings you into town. Accommodation in Blankenheim includes a variety of options, from the DJH Youth Hostel located within the castle to smaller hotels and guesthouses like Hotel Finkenberg, catering to different budgets and preferences. While the village has a small selection of restaurants and take-outs, shopping facilities are somewhat limited. The nearest supermarket is situated to the northeast of the village centre, reachable by a short bus ride or longer walk.

Something to Ponder – Witch Trials

During the late 16th and early 17th centuries, the town, situated within the historical county of Manderscheid Blankenheim-Gerolstein, experienced one of its most grievous periods. This era, deeply enmeshed in the turbulence of the German Witch Trials (Hexenprozesse), saw an alarmingly high rate of executions. While the driving forces behind these persecutions are often attributed to the superstitions of the time, alongside the religious upheavals of the Thirty Years War, Reformation and Counter-Reformation, a closer examination reveals a complex web of contributing factors. Economic downturns, exacerbated by the climatic harshness of the Little Ice Age, led to widespread crop failures and food shortages. These direct hardships, compounded by the recurring devastations of the Black Plague, stirred a pervasive moral panic and fear across the populace, fostering an environment ripe for scapegoating.

Into this turbulent historical context stepped Dr. Johannes Möden, a man whose life story intertwined with the darker aspects of this era. Möden, who had acquired a doctorate “iuris utriusque” — signifying expertise in both civil and church law — carried a reputation for his handsome appearance, unscrupulous character, and libertine lifestyle marked by womanizing and extravagance, despite being burdened by debts. His aspiration for his several sons, whom he fathered with his wives, to receive a quality education prompted his relocation to Munstereifel. It was there that he assumed the role of mayor, embracing a feudal lifestyle while his debts accumulated.

The situation took a dire turn when Count Johann Arnold of Blankenheim, a figure marked by his pious and “sanctimonious” demeanor, voiced concerns over the malevolent influence of devilish powers and the spiritual welfare of his subjects. In response, he appointed Möden to oversee the witch trials, thus granting the disreputable judge an ominous opportunity.

The demographic snapshot of Blankenheim in 1621 consisted of 63 male adults and an approximate total population of 250 within the village (Dorff) and a similar number in the surrounding valley (Dahl), provides a stark backdrop to the ensuing tragedies. In 1627, under Möden’s debauched and ruthless leadership, the court mercilessly tortured and condemned at least 15 residents, predominantly women, to death on charges of witchcraft. In 1629, the witch trials had ensnared at least 70 individuals across the wider Imperial county of Blankenheim, with most victims being ‘mercifully’ strangled or burned at the stake following torture-induced confessions. Among these, 16 were from the Dorff or Dahl of Blankenheim. It is estimated that around 50 people from Blankenheim itself met their demise between 1597 and 1634, constituting nearly 10 percent of its population.

Dr. Johannes Möden’s actions, under the protective veneer afforded by Count Johann Arnold of Blankenheim, the legal framework, and the ecclesiastical authority of the time, present a chilling narrative of misogyny, exploitation and cruelty. Utilizing his positions of power, Möden aggressively pursued, prosecuted, and executed those accused of witchcraft. His zeal not only served the grim purpose of enforcing a misguided justice but also allowed him to amass wealth by claiming the possessions of those he condemned. This sinister aspect of Möden’s career culminated in his death in 1663, leaving behind a complex legacy.

Möden was a figure of contrasts, embodying both intellectual ability and a malevolent spirit. His capability for articulate discourse and intellect was overshadowed by his ruthless ambition and an insatiable desire for personal aggrandizement. These character traits align closely with what is known in contemporary psychology as the ‘Dark Triad’ — a constellation of three personality traits: Narcissism, characterized by an inflated sense of self-importance and a deep need for admiration; Machiavellianism, defined by manipulativeness, deceit, and a cynical disregard for morality; and Psychopathy, marked by a lack of empathy, impulsivity, and antisocial behavior.

The alignment of Möden’s characteristics with the Dark Triad suggests a personality marked by a profound lack of empathy, a manipulative and exploitative nature, and a grandiose sense of self. These traits facilitated his rise to power but also precipitated his infamy, marking him as a sociopathic figure whose actions contributed significantly to one of the most tragic chapters in the history of the Rhine and Moselle regions. The human cost of Möden’s actions — fuelled by fear, superstition, and the abuse of power — left a lasting scar on the collective memory of the area, serving as a somber reminder of the dangers posed by individuals embodying the darkest aspects of human personality.

Möden’s legacy, thus, stands as a testament not only to the individual capacity for malevolence but also to the societal vulnerability to manipulation by those who wield power without conscience. His story encapsulates the profound impact that a single, deeply flawed individual can have on the course of history, underscoring the necessity of vigilance and ethical integrity in positions of authority.

Saint Peter Church Sinzig
St. Peter Church Sinzig © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org
Saint Peter Church Sinzig
St. Peter Church Sinzig © CC BY-SA DeWandelaar.Org

Trail End: Sinzig

Sinzig is situated in a region rich with natural and historical significance, nestled between the flowing waters of the Ahr River and its estuary, and the majestic Rhine. This area is part of the “Golden Mile,” a fertile stretch along the Rhine that boasts lush landscapes and vineyards, making it a picturesque locale for visitors and locals alike.

The history of Sinzig stretches back to ancient times, with evidence of the Urnfield and Hallstatt cultures indicating early human settlement. The region gained prominence in historical texts during Julius Caesar’s Gallic Wars, notably with his crossing of the Rhine, showcasing the area’s strategic importance. The Roman period left a significant mark on Sinzig, with archaeological finds suggesting a vibrant settlement complete with craft businesses around 40 AD. During the Holy Roman Empire, Sinzig’s location on the Via Regia, an important medieval trade route, further elevated its status, particularly under the reign of Frederick Barbarossa, who visited the town multiple times in the 12th century. The 20th century brought challenges, with the Rheinwiesenlager, a Golden Mile POW camp, highlighting the area’s darker moments. More recently, the 2021 floods in Sinzig caused widespread devastation, marking a significant event in the town’s contemporary history.

The Sinzig Local History Museum, housed in Castle Sinzig, offers visitors a deep dive into the town’s rich past, from its ancient roots to modern times. The museum’s collections include artefacts from the Roman era and exhibitions that detail the town’s evolution, making it a key point of interest for history enthusiasts.

Architecturally, Sinzig is home to several noteworthy structures. The Palace (Königspfalz), dating back to its first documentation in 762, served as a significant royal and military base in feudal times when Kings traveled and there were no official capitals. This Königspfalz was replaced over time by a Tithe Estate (Zehnthof), a feudal tax service, and reflects the medieval period’s shifting dynamics. St. Peter Parish Church, a late Romanesque building from the Staufer era, is renowned for its architectural beauty and historical significance. The neo-classical Town Hall, constructed between 1834 and 1837, and Castle Sinzig, built in a neo-Gothic style between 1854 and 1858, further showcase the town’s architectural diversity and historical depth.

Sinzig Bahnhof is easily accessible via the Cologne to Koblenz (or Mainz) railway line, with a stop in Bonn. While supermarkets abound in town, accommodations may require a bit of exploration. Consider major booking platforms or visit the Sinzig website for options. Some choices, like Tappes Hofgarten in Westum, are a short walk away but might involve minor detours from the AhrSteig trail.

Portrait of DeWandelaar in the Teufelsloch near Altenahr and the AhrSteig
Teufelsloch Altenahr © DeWandelaar.Org
Portrait of DeWandelaar in the Teufelsloch near Altenahr and the AhrSteig
Teufelsloch Altenahr © DeWandelaar.Org

DeWandelaar’s Experience

When asked why I initially chose the AhrSteig trail, the reason is straightforward: ‘A’ for AhrSteig appeared near the start of a hiking guide I own. My interest initially sparked because the trail’s three-day journey matched my available time, its location was close to The Netherlands, and my curiosity about German Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) and Riesling, thanks to a New Zealand wine shop I used to run in Amsterdam. The trail end, the Golden Mile plains between Sinzig and the Rhine was also the site of a Rheinwiesenlager POW camp, and as my grandfather had been held in one like this before being shipped to France in 1945, I wanted to see it for myself.

Further research about the AhrSteig brought to light the severe floods in July 2021 where 135 people lost their lives here, and a stark reminder of the devastation I had recently encountered in New Zealand. Paths there were destroyed by Cyclone Gabrielle in February 2023, forcing me to cancel a planned hike and make detours. This connection with catastrophe made me feel a sense of solidarity with the AhrSteig region. In response, I decided to support the local economy through my stay, opting for paid accommodation and tasting a few local wines.

I hiked the trail across three days in early September 2023, starting from Blankenheim Wald station. My journey led me through Villa Rustica, exploring Blankenheim’s notable spots like the Ahrquelle and castle, with a stay at Hotel Finkenburg. There is a lack of huts on the trail’s western half and the challenging heat, peaking at 38°C in Mittelahr, turned water into concern. I found myself running critically low, even filtering water from the Ahr on the second day due to the scarcity of sources. My advice: stock up on water in Blankenheim. My first night was in a hut near Insul.

The next day took me towards Rech, where I inadvertently bypassed the turnoff to Saffenburg castle — a notable detour not directly on the trail. In Rech, I diverged from the AhrSteig for a brief side trip, making a loop to Altenahr via the main road and river, ascending to Burg Are, and then trekking the Rotweinwanderweg above Mayschoß back to Rech. Here, I stayed at Hotel Haus Appel and topped up my water. On the final day, the intense heat led me to accidentally miss the turn to Neuenahrer Berg Turm, and I chose to skip the Felten Turm near Sinzig, heading straight down Waldweg to Tappes Hofgarten Hotel in Westum. The next morning I walked through Sinzig, passing the castle, Barbarossa statue, Sinzig Lion, Town Hall, St. Peter church and Zehnthof before concluding my journey at the train station.

Returning to the Ahr with my family during a wine festival weekend, we stayed at Hotel zur Traube in Altenahr, a weekend experience I highly recommend for wine enthusiasts. I took the opportunity to explore what I’d missed on my hike: the Saffenburg from Mayschoß, and the Schwarzes Kreuz and Teufelsloch from Altenahr — each well worth the visit. Reflecting on my adventures, I’d advise deviating from the AhrSteig near Altenahr to experience the Rotweinwanderweg’s stunning views to Mayschoß. Here, crossing the Ahr to visit the Saffenburg ruins before rejoining the AhrSteig enriches the journey with a taste of the local viticulture — an element too significant to overlook for anyone not planning a return visit.

References

External websites and resources used to create this page.

Data

Data may vary from other sources. Initial GPX track data sourced from ahrsteig.de 1. This is modified to include start and end public transport stations, personal experience and compatibility with OpenStreetMap tiles. Minimal decimal degree track point coordinates are used to reduce file size. Website maps and GPX file coordinates may have different decimal accuracy to reduce file sizes and load times. GPX files are to 5 decimal points or better than 1.11m accuracy. Elevation is modified with best available terrain data. Elevation gain and loss is calculated by creating a sum of the increase or decrease between each GPX track point. Trail distance takes into account slope between track points. Time in hours is calculated using an average walking speed of 5km/h and takes into account speed changes due to slope.

Open Data

Attributed Open Data and content may be imported from the German National Tourist Board (GNTB), the Open Data Tourism Alliance (ODTA), and other sources under the Creative Commons CC BY-SA license. This data and content may be modified. Additional attribution is included in the page schema, viewable using a tool such as the Schema.org validator. Other data or content on this page is copyright of DeWandelaar or other entities. Please contact DeWandelaar if uncertain about copyright.